Fashion returns gone wrong: the environmental cost
The surge in online shopping and relaxed return policies has raised serious environmental concerns about the world of eCommerce, as returned clothes face a wasteful fate.
A pile of clothes in an abandoned warehouse in Cambodia. Photograph: Courtesy of Francois Le Nguyen via Unsplash
The rise of online shopping has made it easier than ever to indulge in retail therapy, but with it comes a hidden reality - the environmental impact of returns in the fashion industry. Copiousness of clothes, shoes, and accessories parcels are being returned to post offices worldwide, as online shoppers grapple with sizing issues, quality concerns, and unmet expectations. In the UK alone, a staggering amount of 1.75 tonnes of clothing waste is generated each year through returns, of which 1.2 tonnes ultimately end up in landfills. Adding to this alarming scenario, the UK is the highest per capita clothing consumer in Europe, purchasing more clothes than any other country. This statistic adds to the growing concern about the environmental sustainability of the fashion industry, which demands urgent attention and action.Returns are becoming completely ingrained in how consumers like to shop. According to a new landmark report from the British Fashion Council, eCommerce returns generate 750,000 tonnes of CO2 emissions annually, with 23 million garments sent to landfill or incinerated, while only 25% gets to be recycled.
Return management specialist Rebound reveals that online purchases face a significantly higher return rate, with one in three items purchased online being returned, compared to 9% of items bought in physical stores.
Graphic designer, Holly Scott, 24, is familiar with this situation. For years, Holly has been a loyal customer at her local post office, where she has returned countless packages of clothes, shoes, and accessories that weren’t worth the purchase. As an enthusiastic online shopper, Scott enjoyed the convenience of browsing and purchasing items from the comfort of her home. She admits that during the pandemic, online shopping became a coping mechanism, a way to pass the time and indulge in treating yourself. “I have a weakness for online shopping,” says Scott. "But sometimes, the reality doesn't quite satisfy expectations. The colour may be off, the size may not fit right, or the quality may not be what I had hoped for."
"I tend to get carried away with online shopping and order more than I originally planned as I know that I can always return items if I don’t end up liking them," admits Scott. "It's not always easy to judge the fit, colour, or quality of an item just by looking at it online. Sometimes, you really need to see and feel it in person to know if it's the right choice."
Among the top reasons for returning items are incorrect sizing or fit (93%) as well as product quality not satisfying customers (81%), with 56% of them suggesting that implementing charges for returns would be the most effective method of reducing frequent returns. Despite being a popular strategy for driving sales, offering free returns comes with a substantial financial burden of approximately £7 billion on both retailers and brands.
“I've realized that this pattern of excessive online shopping and returns has consequences, both for the environment and for my own satisfaction as a consumer.”
- Amy Grant
Returned clothes waiting to be checked for resale. Photograph: Courtesy of Waldemar via Unsplash
Similarly to Scott, NHS midwife Amy Grant, 26, has experienced the challenges of online shopping. She admits to returning nearly 50% of the items she orders online due to sizing or material issues. With a busy work schedule and limited time for physical shopping, she has often turned to online retailers for convenience. She also said that she doesn't consider the environmental impact of her returns beyond packaging wastage: "The environmental impact of returns is not something people talk about often or that I’ve heard," she says. "However, I've realized that this pattern of excessive online shopping and returns has consequences, both for the environment and for my own satisfaction as a consumer."
According to a 2022 report by Hootsuit Digital, 58.4% of internet users between the ages of 16 and 64 make online purchases on a weekly basis, emphasising the widespread adoption of online shopping among this demographic.
Grant confessed that the cost-of-living crisis has led her to cut back on online shopping in recent months: “I hate having to return items, but I can’t afford to keep something that doesn’t meet my expectations," she says. Grant’s story is not unique. With the cost of living on the rise and consumers seeking value for money, retailers are facing a surge in returns as customers become increasingly selective about their purchases.
As the cost-of-living crisis continues to increase in 2023, retailers are facing a further rise in returns. For this reason, brands such as Boohoo and ASOS have recently decided to charge customers £1.99 per parcel sent to their warehouse.
“Retailers need to adapt their strategy to address these challenges. However, the issue goes beyond financial concerns, as it also includes massive sustainability problems, which should be a priority for many brands” says Dana Schou, Director of partnership and development at the Global Fashion Agenda.
"We cannot afford to continue with the 'buy and return' culture, as it results in alarming resource depletion," she explains. "If we do not take action now, the consequences will be even more direct in the coming years. It is our responsibility to prevent further harm to our environment."
"If we do not take action now, the consequences will be even more direct in the coming years. It is our responsibility to prevent further harm to our environment."
- Dana Schou
Clothes waste in Nicaragua. Photograph: courtesy of Hermes Rivera via Unsplash
Although the products we return may still be in good condition, they often end up in landfills, contributing to the global clothing waste crisis. In 2021, Optoro found that nearly 9.6 billion pounds of returns end up in landfill sites.
So, how can we reduce the impact on retailers and the environment? In the UK, from big to small initiatives, organisations are trying to emphasise the shift towards a circular economy model to minimise the impacts on the environment. Love not Landfill, The Circular Economy Wardrobe, The Great British Clothes Swapand TRAID are among these forward-thinking organisations.
While acknowledging the efforts made by second-hand apps and fashion initiatives towards positive change, Schou emphasises that they are just a small piece of the puzzle that needs to be addressed. She believes the real transformative impact can be achieved if customers play a crucial role by reducing their online purchases and being more mindful of their environmental footprint.